VẢI NHUNG TĂM LÀ GÌ ? ĐẶC ĐIỂM, ỨNG DỤNG, PHÂN LOẠI VẢI

 

VẢI NHUNG TĂM LÀ GÌ ? ĐẶC ĐIỂM, ỨNG DỤNG, PHÂN LOẠI VẢI

Khi nhắc đến vải nhung thì không thể nào không nhắc đến vải nhung tăm. Vải nhung tăm đã xuất hiện từ rất nhưng không phải ai cũng hiểu rõ.

Vì thế, trong bài viết hôm nay, Natoli sẽ chia sẻ một số thông tin xung quanh vải nhung tăm, giúp bạn hiểu rõ hơn về loại vải này, cùng tìm hiểu về bài viết này nhé!

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Vải nhung tăm là gì?


Vải nhung tăm là loại vải có các sọc trên bề mặt. Vải nhung tăm là sự kết hợp của nhiều loại sợi khác nhau. Trước đây, loại vải này chủ yếu được làm từ sợi bông thô. Khi mà có sự xuất hiện của sợi tổng hợp, vải nhung tăm đã được sản xuất với nhiều loại sợi hơn.

Vải nhung tăm có có tên khác là vải nhung kẻ. Tuy nhiên đường vân trên bề mặt vải được cấu tạo từ một loại sợi khác với đường dệt mặt phẳng của vải nhung. Thậm chí, vải nhung tăm còn được dệt từ sợi len. 

Vải nhung có nhiều màu sắc khác nhau, với các sợi siêu nhỏ trên bề mặt giúp vải nhung tạo ra hiệu ứng màu sắc thay đổi tùy thuộc vào không gian tiếp xúc.

Vải nhung tăm

Vải nhung tăm tiếng anh là gì ?

Vải nhung tăm có tên tiếng anh là corduroy (ˈkôrdəˌroi). Vì thế nếu như gặp sản phẩm hoặc tài liệu nào ghi là vải corduroy, thì bạn có thể hiểu là đang nhắc tới vải nhung tăm.

Nguồn gốc của vải nhung tăm

Vải nhung tăm xuất hiện lần đầu tiên trên thế giới vào năm 200 sau Công Nguyên tại Ai Cập. Lúc đầu, chất liệu gốc của vải nhung tăm là Fustian - loại vải có nhiều đường kẻ, thô hơn so với vải nhung tăm hiện nay. 

Nguồn gốc của vải nhung tăm đến nay vẫn chưa có tài liệu nào nói rõ. Có tài liệu nói rằng, vải nhung tăm được chế tạo bởi các nhà máy dệt tại Anh vào thế kỷ 18. Trong khi đó, lại có tài liệu nói rằng, vải nhung kẻ có nguồn gốc từ Pháp do “corduroy” là một thuật ngữ tiếng Pháp. 

Vải nhung tăm rất phổ biến tại Anh vào thế kỷ 18. Nhưng cho đến thế kỷ 19, sự xuất hiện của một loại vải nhung đẹp hơn, xa hoa hơn đã thay thế vị trí của vải nhung tăm. 

Vào những năm đầu thế kỷ 20, vải nhung tăm đã quay trở lại và chuyên được dùng để may đồng phục học sinh. Từ những năm 1950 cho đến nay, loại vải này ngày càng phổ biến và được ứng dụng không chỉ trong may mặc mà còn nhiều khía cạnh của cuộc sống.

Quy trình sản xuất vải nhung tăm

Để sản xuất vải nhung tăm, cần trải qua quy chính gồm 4 bước: tạo sợi vải, dệt vải, dán keo và cắt sợi cọc, cuối cùng là nhuộm vải.

Tạo sợi vải

Nếu vải nhung tăm được tạo ra từ sợi bông thì cần thu hoạch bông, tách hạt và kéo sợi bông. 

Nếu vải nhung tăm làm từ polyester cần tạo ra polime từ phản ứng hóa học của monomer - polyme với acid. Sau đó hợp chất này sẽ được làm sạch, đun cho đến khi nóng chảy và cho vào máy bơm để phun ra sợi. 

Còn nếu như làm từ len thì đầu tiên cần thu hoạch lông của động vật, sau đó làm làm sạch chất nhờn lanolin có bên trong, cuối cùng là chải thô để tạo ra sợi len. 

Dệt vải

Tiếp theo chính là công đoạn dệt vải. Vải nhung là loại vải dệt thoi, có kiểu dệt đơn giản. Sợi ngang được luồn ở trên và dưới các sợi dọc trong khi dệt. Cũng có thể dệt vải theo kiểu dệt chéo, tuy nhiên đây là kiểu dệt ít phổ biến hơn.

Sau khi hoàn thành việc đan xen giữa sợi dọc và sợi ngang, phần sợi thừa sẽ được dệt thêm, tạo thành các sợi cọc. Chính những sợi cọc này là điểm đặc trưng riêng biệt của vải nhung tăm. 

Dán keo vào kéo sợi cọc

Sau khi hoàn thành việc dệt vải, mặt sau của vải nhung sẽ được dán kín bằng một lớp keo dính. Chất kết dính này giúp việc cắt dễ dàng hơn. Các nhà sản xuất sẽ sử dụng máy cắt công nghiệp để cắt các sợi cọc. Làm mềm các đường gờ bằng cách chải.

Nhuộm vải

Thông thường, vải nhung tăm sẽ được nhuộm màu bằng máy nhuộm công nghiệp. Trước khi nhuộm sẽ được khử màu bằng hóa chất. Sau đó mới đưa vào máy nhuộm để nhuộm. Cũng nhờ thế mà có thể nhuộm được nhiều màu sắc đa dạng, màu cũng lên cực chuẩn theo nhu cầu. 

Ưu nhược điểm của vải nhung tăm

Vải nhung tăm là loại vải có nhiều ưu điểm vượt trội như độ bền tốt, tính thẩm mỹ cao, giá thành hợp lý và ít nhăn. Bên cạnh đó, vải vẫn còn một số hạn chế như khá nóng, dễ sờn màu và khả năng co giãn kém.

Ưu điểm của vải nhung tăm

Độ bền cao: Vì hầu hết vải nhung tăm được dệt bằng nhiều loại sợi nên vải có độ bền khá cao. Vì chất liệu vải cực kỳ dày dặn nên khi sử dụng rất khó bị xổ vải hay hỏng. Nếu được bảo quản đúng cách, vải nhung tăm có thể sử dụng trong thời gian dài mà không bị cũ hay nhăn.

Tính thẩm mỹ cao: Do ​​chất liệu vải nhung tăm ngày càng đa dạng, nên mọi người có thể sử dụng vải để chế tạo nhiều loại trang phục khác nhau. Bề mặt của vải nhung có những đặc điểm riêng biệt mà không phải chất liệu vải nào có được. 

Giá thấp: Vải nhung tăm có giá thành thấp hơn so với các loại vải nhung khác. Một phần do vải nhung tăm được kết hợp từ nhiều loại sợi tổng hợp.

Vải ít nhăn: Không giống như các loại vải làm từ cotton khác, vải nhung tăm không bị nhăn nhờ cách dệt đặc biệt. Ngoài ra, vải còn không xuất hiện hiện tượng nhăn nhúm, hãy gião vải.

Nhược điểm của vải nhung tăm

Không phải là loại vải lý tưởng tại các nước nhiệt đới: Các khu vực nhiệt đới có điều kiện rất khắc nghiệt. Thời tiết quá lạnh vào mùa đông và quá nóng vào mùa hè. Đây là một trong những điểm hạn chế của vải nhung.

Do khả năng thoáng khí và giữ nhiệt không quá tốt vì thế mà khi trời trở nên quá lạnh, vải nhung không thể giữ ấm cho cơ thể. Tương tự, khi nhiệt độ quá nóng vào mùa hè, thì vải nhung tăm sẽ khiến người mặc cảm thấy bí bách, nóng nực. 

Dễ bị sờn màu vải: Nếu mặc vải trong thời gian dài, các bề mặt tiếp xúc thường xuyên sẽ bị phai màu nhanh chóng. Khi đó, vải sẽ không đều màu, sẽ có chỗ đậm, chỗ nhạt.

Độ co giãn kém: Vải nhung tăm mất độ đàn hồi do đường gân được dệt trên bề mặt. Nên nếu như bạn muốn một trang phục bó sát thì không nên chọn vải nhung tăm. 

Phân chia các loại vải nhung tăm

Vải nhung tăm được chia làm vải nhung tăm thô và vải nhung tăm trơn dựa trên các đường gân bề mặt vải. 

Vải nhung tăm thô 

Vải nhung tăm thô có bề mặt vải hơi thô rep, khi sờ không có cảm giác mịn tay. Các đường dệt cũng khá to và thô. Các đường gân thì nổi rõ. 

Một số loại vải nhung tăm thô như vải nhung tăm chuẩn, dây voi. 

- Vải nhung tăm chuẩn: Vải nhung tăm chuẩn sẽ có 11 đến 12 sợi dệt ngang trong 1 inch vải. Nhận thấy rõ được các đường gân trên bề mặt vải. 

- Dây voi: Các đường gân sẽ nổi rõ như những nếp gấp trên da voi. Các sợi gân rất dày, thô.

Vải nhung tăm thô

Vải nhung tăm trơn

Vải nhung tăm trơn sẽ có bề mặt mịn, sờ láng tay. Các đường gân nhỏ, phải nhìn kỹ mới thấy rõ các được gân này. 

Một số loại vải nhung tăm trơn có thể kể đến như vải nhung tăm Pinwale, Spandex, Bedford.

- Vải nhung tăm Spandex là sự pha trộn giữa cotton, poly và spandex. Vải nhung tăm Spandex co giãn hơn các loại vải nhung tăm khác. Do đó, chất liệu này thường xuyên được sử dụng để sản xuất quần áo trẻ em.

- Vải nhung tăm Pinwale: Vải nhung Pinwale mỏng hơn và có đường vân mịn hơn vải dây voi. Và số sợi ngang trong một inch vải thường xấp xỉ 21 sợi.

- Vải nhung tăm Bedford: Vải nhung Bedford là một loại vải dệt từ Mỹ. Các đường gờ không nhô ra ngoài quá nhiều.

Vải nhung tăm trơn

Ứng dụng của vải nhung tăm

Ngày nay, vải nhung tăm được sử dụng nhiều nhất trong các lĩnh vực thời trang, may mặc như may yếm, quần áo, váy đầm và phụ kiện như túi, mũ. 

Vải nhung tăm trong may trang phục yếm

Ngoài chất liệu jeans hay denim, vải nhung tăm rất được ưa chuộng khi may yếm vì mang đến nét thanh lịch độc đáo. Khi mặc yếm nhung tăm, bạn có thể mặc một chiếc áo thun dài tay hoặc cao cổ bên trong. 

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Vải nhung tăm may quần 

Quần vải nhung tăm là chất vải không ôm sát và khá đứng dáng nên thích hợp để may những chiếc quần ống suông, ống rộng.

Các loại váy, đầm

Chị em thường chọn may các loại váy đi chơi, dự tiệc, công sở,... từ vải nhung tăm. 

- Áo sơ mi: Thay vì sự mềm mại của các loại vải như lụa, kaki hoặc kate, vải nhung tăm có thể mang đến một thiết kế trong cứng cáp và có phần mạnh mẽ hơn cho áo sơ mi.

- Áo khoác vải nhung tăm: Bởi vì vải có thể giữ nhiệt nên rất thích hợp để may áo khoác. Tuy nhiên, áo khoác nhung chỉ nên mặc vào những ngày thời tiết không quá lạnh. Vì chất liệu chỉ có thể giữ nhiệt ở mức trung bình.

- May phụ kiện: Ngoài quần áo, váy thì vải nhung tăm cũng được sử dụng để may các loại phụ kiện như túi, mũ, băng đô,... Các thương hiệu lớn rất thích sử dụng vải nhung tăm để may phụ kiện.

Vải nhung tăm giá bao nhiêu?

Vải nhung tăm có giá trung bình dao động từ 55.000 - 65.000 đồng/ khổ vải. Giá vải nhung tăm sẽ phụ thuộc vào số lượng, loại vải nhung bạn chọn và cơ sở bán vải nhung tăm. 

Mua vải nhung tăm ở đâu?

Vải nhung tăm là loại vải phổ biến, không quá khó tìm. Bạn có thể dễ dàng tìm mua tại các chợ vải lớn trên địa bàn. Ví dụ như chợ vải Ninh Hiệp, Hà Đông, Đồng Xuân,.. ở Hà Nội. Hay tại thành phố Hồ Chí Minh thì có chợ vải Soái Kình Lâm, chợ vải tân Bình, chợ vải Kim Biên,...

Đây đều là những nơi bán sỉ, bán lẻ vải nhung tăm nói riêng và các loại vải nói chung. 

Ngoài ra, nếu bạn muốn chắc chắn mua được loại vải uy tín có thể đến các đơn vị chuyên bán vải, hoặc nhập vải từ nước ngoài về. 

Một số câu hỏi về vải nhung tăm

Vải nhung tăm có nhăn không?

Câu trả lời là Không. Nhờ cách dệt đặc biệt mà dù có vò hay nhàu thì vải nhung tăm cũng không bị nhăn hay xuất hiện nếp gấp trên bề mặt vải. 

Chất vải nhung tăm có nóng không?

Độ thoáng khí của vải nhung tăm khá kém vì thế đôi khi người mặc sẽ cảm thấy nóng khi mặc các trang phục làm từ vải nhung tăm. 

Vải nhung tăm có ủi được không?

Có. Nếu như muốn ủi vải nhung tăm hay bất kỳ một loại vải nhung nào, đều cần một lớp ngăn cách giữa máy ủi và bề mặt vải. Có thể sử dụng khăn hoặc vải mỏng. Tốt nhất là nên sử dụng bàn là hơi nước. 

Vải nhung tăm có dày không?

Vải nhung tăm hơi dày do mật độ các sợi vải khá dày và dệt chồng chéo vào nhau. Cũng vì thế mà vải không được đánh giá cao về độ thoáng khí. 

Vải nhung tăm ngày nay được giới trẻ yêu thích không kém vải nhung thông thường không chỉ vì các đường gân đặc trưng mà còn là tính thẩm mỹ mà vải mang lại. Hy vọng qua bài viết này, nếu như ai đang tìm kiếm cho mình một chất vải mới lạ thì hãy thử ngay vải nhung tăm nhé!

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